Saturday, February 13, 2016

Americana Plaid Flannel Archer Button Up

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I'm going to be real with you, I 100% copied this shirt from Lauren of Lladybird. I saw her Archer in this fabric and I had to have it. This fabric is my PERFECT plaid flannel. It is 100% what I've always wanted out of a plaid: American colors, big and bold, predominantly red. It's so rustic, but still polished.

girl sewing diy fashion design button down flannel hipster american plaid rolled up sleeves tutorial how to sew button collar sleeves do it yourself brunette woman midwest milwaukee sewing blog

Because I am clearly obsessed, let's talk about the fabric first. It is a Kauffman Mammoth flannel, ordered from Fabric.com. It's double napped, which means it has been brushed on both sides, so it is extra warm. Make no mistake, this also means it is very susceptible to shrinkage! Flannel tends to shrink more than other fabrics, something I know well from my job, since I work in men's lounge wear -- lots of flannel pajama pants. I always pre-wash my fabrics, usually in a more extreme manner than I will be caring for the garment, and I was slightly worried when I only pre-washed this once. So I was really, really fearful when I threw this in the washer for the first time as a full garment. What if I totally ruined my brand new shirt?! Here's the wonderful news: IT DIDN'T SHRINK. I hung it to dry, but since shrinkage happens in the washing cycle too, I don't credit this to the fact that I air-dried it. This fabric. Is awesome. Who wants to hand-wash a button-down? Super stoked.

girl sewing diy fashion design button down flannel hipster american plaid rolled up sleeves tutorial how to sew button collar sleeves do it yourself brunette woman midwest milwaukee sewing blog



girl sewing diy fashion design button down flannel hipster american plaid rolled up sleeves tutorial how to sew button collar sleeves do it yourself brunette woman midwest milwaukee sewing blog

The pattern is the Archer Button Up from Grainline Studios. This is the 3rd shirt I've made using this pattern (this was the firstthis was the second), but I don't think I've quite corrected the fit yet. Overall I am pleased with how the body fits, but I think the sleeves are slightly bigger than I would like, especially through the forearm. I'm thinking I might try closing the pleats next time?

I actually finished this a few weeks ago, just in time for a trip to Baltimore to visit a friend. I definitely was rushing to get it done in time to take it with, and stayed up until 1am the night of my 6am flight to set the buttonholes. I haven't done that nonsense since college! But it was worth it! Because I was going the weekend of the Jonas blizzard, our travel plans got moved around and we went to Philadelphia airport first, and then took the train up to Baltimore. I hadn't gotten a chance to sew on the buttons but I was totally wearing the shirt open over a t-shirt anyway. So on the train, I pulled it off, got out my thread and buttons, and started sewing away. Definitely got some funny looks from my seat-mate!

girl sewing diy fashion design button down flannel hipster american plaid rolled up sleeves tutorial how to sew button collar sleeves do it yourself brunette woman midwest milwaukee sewing blog

I'm glad I pushed so hard to finish it, too, because when we were snowed in that weekend, I wanted nothing more than to wear this cozy thing! 

While I was careful to plaid-match at CF and at the side seams, I did not at all plan the matching from sleeves to body. Accidents that look time-consuming? Yes, please!

girl sewing diy fashion design button down flannel hipster american plaid rolled up sleeves tutorial how to sew button collar sleeves do it yourself brunette woman midwest milwaukee sewing blog

girl sewing diy fashion design button down flannel hipster american plaid rolled up sleeves tutorial how to sew button collar sleeves do it yourself brunette woman midwest milwaukee sewing blog

One other thing I did differently from last time was to change up the placket from the continuously bound one that comes with the pattern. Instead, I followed this tutorial from Off the Cuff. While I am pretty pleased with the results, I think this method might not be a good fit for fabric this bulky, because there isn't a way to trim the excess from the bottom of the placket, and there is quite a bit of fabric tucked under from making the point. I also think I made my placket a little too long, but since I wear my shirtsleeves rolled up 90% of the time anyway, it doesn't matter!

girl sewing diy fashion design button down flannel hipster american plaid rolled up sleeves tutorial how to sew button collar sleeves do it yourself brunette woman midwest milwaukee sewing blog

The back yoke, pocket, and front placket were all cut on the bias. All seams are flat-felled, which I love, because it makes the shirt feel like it could last a lifetime. But... maybe not at the rate that I've been wearing this. No biggie, I already ordered more Kaufman Flannel (different colorways) for more Archer shirts. Not even sorry.

girl sewing diy fashion design button down flannel hipster american plaid rolled up sleeves tutorial how to sew button collar sleeves do it yourself brunette woman midwest milwaukee sewing blog

girl sewing diy fashion design button down flannel hipster american plaid rolled up sleeves tutorial how to sew button collar sleeves do it yourself brunette woman midwest milwaukee sewing blog


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5 comments:

  1. I've been wondering if this was Grainline studios. Gonna have to try one some day...in a midst the other hobbies...The flannel sounds fantastic! (yes, it is a bit cool here)

    You look great!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. You should definitely try it out! It's a beautifully drafted pattern. Hope the tapestry class is going well!!

      And, thank you!! :)

      Delete

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